Overview
ISO 105-P02:2002 - Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Part P02: Colour fastness to pleating: Steam pleating - specifies a laboratory method to determine the resistance of textile colour to steam-pleating processes. The standard defines specimen preparation, test apparatus, three severity levels (gentle, medium, severe), and assessment procedures using grey scales. It is used to evaluate colour change and staining (crocking) caused by steam pleating rather than to judge pleating quality.
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope: Applies to textiles of all kinds and forms at any stage of manufacture; three test severities are provided and one or more may be selected depending on requirements.
- Specimen construction:
- Typical composite specimen: 40 mm × 100 mm test piece sewn to a multifibre or monofibre adjacent fabric.
- For yarns or loose fibres, fill is placed between witness fabrics of the same dimensions and sewn on all four sides.
- Test apparatus:
- Support cylinder: copper tube 80 mm diameter (1.5 mm wall) wrapped with six layers of bleached cotton (~125 g/m2) and an outer cotton cover (~185 g/m2).
- Autoclave with jacket or suitably sized domestic pressure cooker (marmite autoclave) for mild/medium tests; severe test requires a jacketed autoclave.
- Additional fixtures: perforated metal tray, thin polyester film, springs and rods to hold covers in place.
- Test conditions (steam pleating) - three sets (Table 1):
- Gentle: heating 5 min, treatment 5 min, pressure 135 kPa, temperature 108 °C.
- Medium: heating 8 min, treatment 10 min, pressure 170 kPa, temperature 115 °C.
- Severe: heating 15 min, treatment 20 min, pressure 270 kPa, temperature 130 °C (not for wool-containing textiles).
- Evaluation:
- Assess colour change of the specimen and staining on witness fabrics using ISO grey scales (ISO 105-A02 for change, ISO 105-A03 for staining).
- Reporting: Must include standard reference, sample identification, fastness grades for colour change and staining, witness fabric types, and test severity used.
Practical applications and who uses it
- Textile manufacturers and finishing mills: verify product resistance to steam-pleating finishing operations.
- Quality control and independent test laboratories: routine compliance testing and acceptance criteria verification.
- Product development and textile R&D: compare dyes, dyeing processes, and finish formulations for pleat durability.
- Brands and compliance officers: ensure finished garments meet customer specifications for pleat-stability colour fastness.
Keywords: ISO 105-P02, colour fastness to pleating, steam pleating, textiles testing, autoclave testing, multifibre fabric, grey scale evaluation.
Related standards
- ISO 105-A01 (general principles for colour fastness testing)
- ISO 105-A02 (grey scale for change)
- ISO 105-A03 (grey scale for staining)
- ISO 105-F10 (multifibre test fabric)
- ISO 139 (standard conditioning atmospheres for testing)