Overview
EN ISO 105‑X13:1997 (ISO 105‑X13:1994) specifies a laboratory method for assessing colour fastness of wool dyes to processes that use chemical means for creasing, pleating and setting in combination with steam. The method evaluates both any change in the specimen's colour and staining of adjacent fabrics after a controlled spray/steam pressing cycle, using ISO grey scales for objective assessment.
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope: Applies to textiles made from wool of all kinds; determines resistance of wool dyes to chemical creasing/pleating/setting treatments.
- Test principle: A treated specimen (sprayed with a chemical solution) and an untreated comparison specimen are assembled between specified adjacent fabrics and steam‑pressed side by side; differences in colour and staining are assessed using grey scales.
- Apparatus & reagents:
- Flat‑bed steam press with steam supply at not less than 415 kPa; press should be at normal operating temperature and run six times through the standard cycle if starting cold.
- Spray (chemically inert), glass plate (100 × 150 mm), protective backing (thick cotton or towelling), and specified adjacent fabrics (80 × 110 mm wool and cotton per ISO 105‑F).
- The procedure was established using an aqueous chemical solution (example: 5% monoethanolamine sesquisulfite + 0.3% wetting agent); other products may be used with appropriate concentration adjustments (add 3 g wetting agent per litre irrespective of composition).
- Specimens & assembly:
- Test and comparison specimens: 100 × 150 mm; composite specimens assembled with four adjacent fabrics (two wool, two cotton) and backing.
- Spray to a mass increase of 100%, assemble sprayed specimen with prewetted wool adjacent fabric, then steam‑press.
- Test cycle: Steam top only for 30 s, hold closed for 30 s, then apply vacuum for 10 s; dry specimens in air ≤ 60 °C.
- Assessment & reporting: Assess change in colour (ISO 105‑A02) and staining of adjacent fabrics (ISO 105‑A03). Test report must identify the standard edition, sample details, chemical product and concentration, and numerical grey scale ratings.
Applications
- Quality control for textile mills, dyehouses and pleating/finishing operations to verify dye performance under chemical creasing/setting processes.
- Product development and process optimization when selecting dyes, finishing chemicals or pleating processes.
- Compliance testing for manufacturers or suppliers who need documented colour‑fastness data for wool products.
Who uses this standard
- Textile testing laboratories and QA departments
- Wool fabric manufacturers and finishers
- Dye chemists and process engineers
- Certification bodies and procurement specialists assessing material durability
Related standards
- ISO 105‑A01 (general principles), ISO 105‑A02 (grey scale for change in colour), ISO 105‑A03 (grey scale for staining), ISO 105‑F (standard adjacent fabrics).
- EN adoption: EN ISO 105‑X13:1997 (CEN).
Keywords: EN ISO 105‑X13:1997, ISO 105‑X13, colour fastness, wool dyes, creasing, pleating, setting, chemical processes, steam pressing, grey scale, textile testing.